Picking Your Suit Fabric

Written by Briggs Clothiers


Posted on January 17 2022

Choosing a suit fabric is typically the first step of purchasing a custom suit. Once you consider the sheer variety of materials available, it’s quite natural to feel overwhelmed. There is certainly no shortage of fabric options, ranging from classic wool to lightweight blends to intricately patterned pieces like houndstooth.

Fortunately, our experts at Briggs Clothiers are here to help you select the best suit fabric based on your needs, taste, and sense of style. Read on to learn the most important considerations for suit fabric selection.



If you plan to wear your suit frequently, we recommend searching for durable fabric. Generally speaking, you cannot go wrong with wool. Wool is comfortable, resilient, and less prone to wrinkling than other popular fabrics, making it perfect for regular use.

If you don’t wear suits often, you may choose to invest in a more luxurious fabric, such as cashmere or silk. You can then stand out from the crowd in a dapper suit designed for special occasions without worrying about regular wear and tear.



If you struggle with sensitive skin, it’s critical to consider fabric texture before investing in a custom suit. For instance, worsted wool is soft and usually does not cause itching. However, rougher wool such as tweed may cause itchiness, as can inexpensive blends like polyester.

For the crème de la crème of soft fabric, consider cashmere. Spun from the wool of cashmere goats, it is exceedingly soft to the touch and imparts a rich, beautiful sheen. Velvet and silk are also great choices for those who prize texture. However, these fabrics are not as versatile or resilient as wool.



If you’re choosing a suit for a special occasion, consider the date of the event before selecting your fabric. For example, a linen suit is an excellent choice for an outdoor event in July, while wool is more appropriate for a winter occasion.

If your event takes place in spring or summer, consider airy fabrics, such as:

  • Cotton: Versatile cotton fabrics include popular options like khaki, a quintessential summer fabric.
  • Wool: “Tropical wool” is a light-weight, breathable type of wool.
  • Linen: Though it tends to wrinkle easily, linen makes for a casually attractive look.

On the other hand, thicker fabric works best for fall or winter events. These heavier fabrics will keep you warm without adding extra bulk, especially if you opt for a popular cold-weather option like:

  • Tweed: Tweed is a stiffly constructed woolen fabric perfectly suited for casual winter occasions.
  • Velvet: Velvet evokes a vintage look alongside its ultra-soft feel and unrivaled warmth.
  • Cashmere: Cashmere exemplifies pure, timeless luxury.


Every type of fabric contains a weave. The weave refers to how the lengthwise and crosswise yarns of a fabric intersect and create a distinctive pattern throughout the material. As a result, a weave can yield subtle or dynamic designs.

Be mindful of a fabric’s weave if you want to express your sense of style through your suit. Examples of stylish weaves include:

  • Herringbone: Typically, you will find herringbone’s V-shaped weave in pieces made of wool or tweed. The heaviness of the fabrics and the elegant design make herringbone a good choice for a winter suit.
  • Seersucker: Warm spring and summer days call for lightweight seersucker. The fabric’s weave alternates between tight and loose yarns, giving it a charmingly puckered surface. As such, a seersucker suit is a mainstay of casual or semi-formal events.
  • Gabardine: Tightly woven gabardine gives off a subtle luster, making the mid-weight fabric a favorite for year-round wear.
  • Houndstooth: Houndstooth’s bold weave resembles checkmarks, creating a statement piece sure to please the choosiest buyers. This pattern is a popular choice for tweed suits, though most designers only incorporate the pattern into the blazer, not the entire suit.


Tailoring is a fundamental part of buying a custom suit. No matter how high-priced, off-the-rack suits will not have the same sophisticated, bespoke look of a custom suit. Even the most luxurious fabric cannot compensate for an ill-fitting suit.

That said, certain fabrics lend themselves better to tailoring. Therefore, steer clear of fabrics like silk if you want a well-tailored suit. Instead, opt for the following fabrics for a suit that fits like a glove.

  • Wool: The fabric’s sturdiness is another reason wool is a top choice for suits.
  • Cotton: An experienced tailor can easily modify the versatile fabric to suit your frame.
  • Linen: While lightweight, linen isn’t slippery. As a result, linen suits lend themselves to custom tailoring.


Now that you have more insight into the best fabric for a custom suit, it’s time to turn your vision into a reality. Call our Briggs Clothiers experts at 931-647-6444 to create your once-in-a-lifetime suit.